Xi'an with a population of approx 6.8 million people has served as capital to 11 dynasties over a period of 4,000 years but maybe the most remarkable characteristic about the city is that its 14km city walls built in the Ming dynasty still encompasses the city.
Our 14 hour train trip from Nanjing to Xi'an on the Hard Sleeper was actually nowhere near as terrible as everyone was expecting. A hard sleeper carriage is essentially comprised of a lot of three walled rooms with basically a three bed bunk attached to each of two walls. There is enough space to lie down but sitting up is difficult without hitting your head on all but the bottom bunk. Most of the train ride was overnight so went quickly although some slept better than others.
On our first day in Xi'an we walked towards the South Gate - no easy task - at times having to cross eight lanes of traffic where pedestrian crossings seem to mean little to erratic drivers.
At the South Gate we watched avidly the performance by some authentic looking Ming Dynasty soldiers doing a performance. After this we ascended the twelve meter high wall and hired some tandem bicycles. I must say this was one of the highlight of our trip so far for me. The wall is actually quite wide on top, around 15 meters, so cycling although sometimes a little bumpy on the 630 year old slabs is actually unproblematic. It was all rather tranquil as we were nearly the only ones up there being so early in the morning. It is a great way to see around the whole city and well worth the 20 Yuan.
That afternoon we attacked the Bell and Drum Towers which were constructed around 1380. Originally used to indicate the time or foreworn of an attack these two impressive towers now serve more as a tourist attraction. The Bell Tower which is positioned in the very centre of Xi'an is the meeting place of the North, South, West and East roads that divide the city into its four quarters.
Later that evening we embarked on what I can only describe as one of the most terrifying experiences I have ever had when we took a taxi to the Big Goose Pagoda just outside Xi'an's city walls to watch the biggest water fountain show in China. Our Taxi driver seemed to think that we must have been bank robbers looking for a fast getaway, defying the ability to appreciate human life he accelerated around cars into on coming traffic only at the last moment to pull back onto the right side of road into a gap only made possible by the heavily breaking car behind. Then performing some of the most remarkable Asian lane changes (indicate one way and go the other without looking) across three lanes of congested traffic before doing the same back the other way all at high speed. This was only made worse since for all except the driver seatbelts seem very optional extras in all taxis in China. If it wasn't for our own continuous laughter and lack of the ability to say "please let me out" in Chinese I am sure you would of heard my screams. Although considering we left about 2-3 minutes after the rest of our tour group and arrived a good 3-4 minutes before them on a 15 minute taxi ride shows his adeptness in Xi'an traffic. The 20 minute water fountain show was actually very impressive as we were all a bit hesitant about going as it wasn't mentioned in any of our travel books but once again Olive's local knowledge showed its value again as we witnessed a show worthy of Vegas.
The next day we visited the Huiling School for about thirty mentally disabled people. Although mostly for younger children some of its students are more than forty years old. This school is completely privately funded and hence has very little resources but it seems to produce remarkable results with its students teaching them skills such as how to cross the street and purchase food from the supermarket which may seem simple to us but is a major step to allow them to participate in society. The school also gives them a chance to develop and later sell art work some of which produced is of an astounding standard especially the pieces by the autistic kids.
Our 14 hour train trip from Nanjing to Xi'an on the Hard Sleeper was actually nowhere near as terrible as everyone was expecting. A hard sleeper carriage is essentially comprised of a lot of three walled rooms with basically a three bed bunk attached to each of two walls. There is enough space to lie down but sitting up is difficult without hitting your head on all but the bottom bunk. Most of the train ride was overnight so went quickly although some slept better than others.
On our first day in Xi'an we walked towards the South Gate - no easy task - at times having to cross eight lanes of traffic where pedestrian crossings seem to mean little to erratic drivers.
At the South Gate we watched avidly the performance by some authentic looking Ming Dynasty soldiers doing a performance. After this we ascended the twelve meter high wall and hired some tandem bicycles. I must say this was one of the highlight of our trip so far for me. The wall is actually quite wide on top, around 15 meters, so cycling although sometimes a little bumpy on the 630 year old slabs is actually unproblematic. It was all rather tranquil as we were nearly the only ones up there being so early in the morning. It is a great way to see around the whole city and well worth the 20 Yuan.
That afternoon we attacked the Bell and Drum Towers which were constructed around 1380. Originally used to indicate the time or foreworn of an attack these two impressive towers now serve more as a tourist attraction. The Bell Tower which is positioned in the very centre of Xi'an is the meeting place of the North, South, West and East roads that divide the city into its four quarters.
Later that evening we embarked on what I can only describe as one of the most terrifying experiences I have ever had when we took a taxi to the Big Goose Pagoda just outside Xi'an's city walls to watch the biggest water fountain show in China. Our Taxi driver seemed to think that we must have been bank robbers looking for a fast getaway, defying the ability to appreciate human life he accelerated around cars into on coming traffic only at the last moment to pull back onto the right side of road into a gap only made possible by the heavily breaking car behind. Then performing some of the most remarkable Asian lane changes (indicate one way and go the other without looking) across three lanes of congested traffic before doing the same back the other way all at high speed. This was only made worse since for all except the driver seatbelts seem very optional extras in all taxis in China. If it wasn't for our own continuous laughter and lack of the ability to say "please let me out" in Chinese I am sure you would of heard my screams. Although considering we left about 2-3 minutes after the rest of our tour group and arrived a good 3-4 minutes before them on a 15 minute taxi ride shows his adeptness in Xi'an traffic. The 20 minute water fountain show was actually very impressive as we were all a bit hesitant about going as it wasn't mentioned in any of our travel books but once again Olive's local knowledge showed its value again as we witnessed a show worthy of Vegas.
The next day we visited the Huiling School for about thirty mentally disabled people. Although mostly for younger children some of its students are more than forty years old. This school is completely privately funded and hence has very little resources but it seems to produce remarkable results with its students teaching them skills such as how to cross the street and purchase food from the supermarket which may seem simple to us but is a major step to allow them to participate in society. The school also gives them a chance to develop and later sell art work some of which produced is of an astounding standard especially the pieces by the autistic kids.
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